I designed and installed my own 10kw system, and was the main instructor for an associate degree program in Advanced energy at a local technical college for a few years.
You can buy just the components kits from most solar distributors for about 1.50 to $2 a watt. This system is a microinverter system meaning a small individual inverter to produce the needed ac on each panel (or small group of panels). The photos they are showing is plugging into a 110vac outlet, but most inverters are 220/240vac, and the higher voltage would probably be better. You would definitely want a waterproof place to plug the system into too.
A couple of technical details. Most inspectors and power companies will want a certified electrician to do the wiring at least to the outlet connection. Fire codes require a separate breaker and external disconnect to shut down the system in case of fire.
You also have to fill out quite a bit of paperwork and have the basic system inspected by the power utility company. The power company also has to replace the standard meter with a "net" meter and change the account over to net metering. Standard "smart" meters will actually accumulate as usage billed to you even for power you send to the power company. (You actually pay for the power you send to them on these meters, so you must sign up for the "net" meter.) AEP charged me about $500 to change out to the net meter. If you want credit for the Solar Renewable Energy Credits, you also may need your own private production meter, and sign up for the SREC program for your area.
There are a few checks that a qualified electrical engineer/electrician needs to make to insure your house wiring will take the extra power requirement.
Finally, mounting this stuff on your roof can be a little tricky. You have to make sure that the holes you are putting through your roofing will NEVER leak. Water damage can be the worst from even a small leak. The other detail is that all the square footage of panel act as a large sail in the wind. You have to make sure the fasteners used are strong enough, and have enough holding power to hold in the local max wind usually at least near 100mph. The roof trusses also needs to be evaluated that it can hold the extra weight of the panes and additional wind load/snow load.
I am not saying you cannot do all of this yourself, just be aware of these details the installers usually take care of.
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