(snip)
Mystification. I am in a traffic jam in the Muthhana area of Baghdad, a thieves' paradise, next to a beat-up Toyota
with a bearded man at the wheel. The driver's window is broken, the door doesn't close properly, the registration
plates have fallen off.
"Well, you're safe," I shout at him. "No one's going to steal your car." The man grins back at me. "No, they can't
steal my car," he roars, then reaches to the floor of his vehicle. He comes up with his false left leg and dangles it
out of the window towards me. "And they can't steal me either." Chicken tikka? False legs? Where do the Iraqis
find their sense of humour?
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