Democratic Underground Latest Greatest Lobby Journals Search Options Help Login
Google

Buying a bike for the first time since age 14; need guidance

Printer-friendly format Printer-friendly format
Printer-friendly format Email this thread to a friend
Printer-friendly format Bookmark this thread
Home » Discuss » DU Groups » Recreation & Sports » Bicycling Group Donate to DU
 
Plaid Adder Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat May-20-06 11:25 AM
Original message
Buying a bike for the first time since age 14; need guidance
Howdy gang,

As part of my new 'lifestyle changes' program I have decided to get a bicycle. I like biking, and there's certainly plenty of room to ride where I live. However, I haven't actually bought a bicycle since I was 14. (I still have it, and it still works, but it's at my parents' house so it's not much good to me now.) What should I be looking for?

I'm not planning to climb a mountain or go off-road or race anyone with it; I just want something fairly light, sturdy, and low-maintenance that I can get on and pedal around for a couple hours on. My old bike was a 12-speed but who knows; maybe they're making them with 25 speeds now. Anyway, any of you who have any advice on brands, types, questions to ask, etc., it would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

The Plaid Adder
Refresh | 0 Recommendations Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
Longhorn Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat May-20-06 04:02 PM
Response to Original message
1. I just started up a year ago
just before I turned 50. I got what they call a "hybrid" bike -- it has gearing like a mountain bike (24 speeds -- you were close! :) ) but a more upright position than a road bike.

If you go to a good bicycle shop (or two) and tell them your interests and budget, they should be able to fit you on a good bike that meets your needs. There are now road bikes, comfort bikes, mountain bikes, hybrids, and "cruisers" so something will surely fit the bill.

There's a great site (www.sheldonbrown.com) where you can learn anything and everything about cycling (including an explanation of the different kinds of bikes!) It's nicely arranged so you can click on the topic that interests you and whenever they use bicycle jargon, it is linked to a definition or further discussion so you're never completely clueless.

After riding around at the veloway, I started riding my bike part way to work. Since the entire trip was a little too hilly for me, I got an electric bike and started commuting 17 miles one way and even made the round trip before a schedule change did me in. I'm back at it again this summer, though. I hope you love it as much as I do! :hi:
Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
bvar22 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat May-20-06 07:09 PM
Response to Original message
2. Welcome to the Bicycle Forum!
I recently resumed "Biking" after a hiatus of 35 years.
I am now an addict.

I agree with the advice offered above with some cautionary notes.
Be realistic about your needs.
I found it absurd to contemplate spending $500 to save 2lbs. of weight on the frame when I was 40 lbs overweight.
Ditto the streamlining.
I look forward to the day when 2lbs. of frame weight or an aerodynamic downtube will make a difference to me.
The Point of Diminishing Returns for bicycles is at about $500 (IMHO) for entry adult riders.

I currently ride a Gary Fisher "Zebrano" with which I am very happy (retail approx $450)
I have added about $70 in stuff.
My bike is a "hybrid" (or multi-purpose). I primarily ride on dedicated bike paths (hundreds of miles in the Twin Cities) or streets.
Occasionally, I like to explore a dirt trail.
On a daily basis, I jump curbs, and confront potholes, construction areas, debris, cracks, drains, and other obstacles that the city chooses to put in my path. I am willing to carry a couple of x-tra pounds for the security of strong frame and wheels and Kevlar tires. I also believe that an upright riding position (while less aerodynamic) is safer in traffic.

Most manufacturers offer a bike that is comparable to the one I ride.
I strongly suggest that you buy a bike with "Rapid Fire" shifters.
I will never go back to another kind of shifter.
IMO, these shifters are the best thing that has happened to bicycles since paved roads.
http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=view_all&address=324x566


Most importantly, have fun, and be careful.
This activity can be highly addictive.

Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
happyslug Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sat May-20-06 11:38 PM
Response to Original message
3. Some previous threads on this subject
http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=324&topic_id=1209

On Cold WeatheR Riding:
http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=324&topic_id=1029

On Panniers (Saddlebags) and messenger bags on bikes:
http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=324&topic_id=1079
http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=324&topic_id=938

Tires and Terrain:
http://www.democraticunderground.com/discuss/duboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=324&topic_id=596

First, decide on the Frame, up to 70% of your peddling power is absorbed by the Frame. Thus the Stiffer the Frame the easier it is to peddle. Todays Frame Materials fall into the following categories:

1. High Tension Steel, Wonder material of 1900. Compared to bikes made previous to the use of High Tension Steels, these are VERY Strong (If the Titanic had been built with it instead of the Bulk Steels used in Building the Titanic, the Titanic would NOT have sunk). The majority of bikes made since 1900 has been High Tension Steel. It is a Very Fixable material, it is cheap to make into a bike and cheap to repair, but vastly inferior in the issue of Stiffness: compared the the rest of materials used.

2. Chrome-Moly (Cr-Mo) Steel, the wonder material of the 1930s. Almost all (if not all) winers of the Tour De France have used Cr-Mo Frames prior to Lance Armstrong (He uses a Fiber-Carbon Bike). Cr-Mo is VASTLY stiffer than High Tension Steel, make biking easier and more enjoyable.

3. Aluminum. Aluminum is four times stronger than steel by mass (Through twice Steel's Volume). Aluminum as NOT used in Bike frame's for Decades for the rear derailleur hanger broke the whole frame had to be scraped (Unlike High Tensions Steel and even Cr-Mo Steel could be repaired in such situations by brazing). Cannondale figured out a way to replace the rear Derailleur WITHOUT having to replace the Whole frame in the early 1970s. Cannondale patented their process and until their patent ran out was almost the sole maker of Aluminum framed bikes in the US. When Cannondale's Patent ran out in the mid 1980s, everyone came out with an Aluminum bike Frame. The reason is Aluminum is even Stiffer than Cr-Mo and thus even easier to peddle (Through the Difference is NOT as great as between Cr-Mo Steel and High Tension steel).

4. Titanium is even stiffer than Aluminum and has the same volume as Steel (Thus the bikes look "Normal" not "fat" is titanium frames are used. Popular in the 1990s when Titanium prices dropped do to the end of the Cold War but since the price of Titanium has gone up since about 2000, not as often seen as before. Even in the 1990s Titanium frames were 2-3 times the price of an Aluminum frame and while Stiffer was NOT 2-3 times as stiff as an Aluminum Frame.

5. Carbon-Fiber. This is the newest material, first used extensively by Trek in the 1990s but most companies are now coming out with Carbon-Fiber Frames, but like Titanium frames stiffer than Aluminum but NOT 2-3 times as stiff (And cost 2-3 times as much as Aluminum).

The above are the frame Material, I go with Aluminum for you want to avoid High Tension Steel, and Cr-Mo is much better than High Tension Steel, but Aluminum is EVEN better (and given the costs of Aluminum bikes today, the best buy for a Serious bike ride).

As to Gears, I Have used Shimano XTR Series and Shimano XT (And Scrm 7.0). All EXCELLENT systems, but with the XTR series costing twice as much as the XT (and NOT twice as Good) the best choice (unless you are racing) is to go with the XT Series (or the SCRAM 7.0 and 9.0 series). LX is a step down from XT, but good enough if you plan to upgrade sooner or later (And remember you can always switch out gears systems). Ready made bikes (such as found in your local Store, will have a mix of parts, the key is making sure most are at least XT quality).

Beside the above and what has been said in Previous threads, the best bike is one YOU LIKE and find to work for you.

One last comment, you are female. One of the difference between men and women is their center of Gravity, in men is in the middle of their Chest, in women it is two inches below their belly button. The significance of this is Men feel comfortable with their arms and body high above the bike frame, for a Man's center of gravity is thus centered between the handlebars and the Seat. Women, ont he other hand, in such a situation find their center of gravity hanging out in the air behind them. Thus most women prefer a more upright position when riding a bicycle (and should consider a Recumbent for then their center of Gravity in sitting below them on the seat with their legs up in the air.
Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
wtmusic Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sun May-21-06 10:43 AM
Response to Original message
4. Sounds like you're looking for a "hybrid"
and there are a lot of manufacturers vying for your dollar. The first stops I'd recommend:

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/030.000.000/030.000.006.asp?range=258

http://www.marinbikes.com/bicycles_2006/html/bikes/bike_series/bikes_ser_city.html

http://www2.trekbikes.com/bikes/subcategory.php?c=4&s=16

http://www.konaworld.com/shopping_cart/FrontEnd/Products/product_detail.aspx?productid=346&parentid=253

One other suggestion: paying special attention to getting a light bike, even if you need to sacrifice shocks or other features, will add to your overall experience.

Good luck :thumbsup:
Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
happyslug Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon May-22-06 09:31 PM
Response to Reply #4
5. What No Cannondales?
Edited on Mon May-22-06 09:32 PM by happyslug
http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/index.html

Anyway, my opinion on the difference between 26 inch wheels (What most Mountain bikes have) and 700 cc Wheels (Which Most road bikes have).

The 700cc is slightly larger than the 26 inch wheel (The 700cc is sometime called a 27 or 28 inch wheel, through nether term is technically correct, the 700cc is a French designation of the most common wheel on Road and road Racing bicycles). The larger diameter of the 700 cc makes it easier to peddle up hill (if you have the gears) and on flats. The reason is the gear to wheel combination is "wider" do to the larger wheel size (i.e. in any particular Gear, the wheel of the 700cc will be going FASTER than the same wheel if it was 26 inch do to the 700cc larger diameter). Remember one thing the narrow the tire the more pressure you can put into the tire without it breaking do to excessive tire pressure. The Higher the tire pressure the less roll Resistance the tire endures and thus the easier the bike as a whole is to peddle.

Wheel the 700cc is a more efficient wheel when it comes to peddling efficiency, the 26 inch can be made to a wider, as opposed to the taller 700cc, diameter. The reason for this is the 26 inch was first used in rural America on dirt roads (roughly 1900-1960). This type of bike was still around when the Mountain bike craze started in the late 1970s and became big in the 1980s. The wider tire provided more traction on dirt so was preferred to the narrower tires of the 700cc road bikes.

This is the difference between these two sizes today, the 700cc tend to be narrow (permitting higher tire pressures and thus less road resistance thus faster speeds) while the 26 inch provides more area coming into contact with the road surface providing more braking power and more tire on the road if that is a problem (It is a problem on Dirt roads and going Cross-Country, it is NOT a problem on paved roads).

Now there is some overlap between the two tire sizes. For example I have 1 inch wide 26 inch tires on my Trailer to my bicycle (i.e. roughly 25mm wide). My sister has 35mm wide tires on her Hybrid Cannondale which has 700cc tires. Thus the tire on my Trailer while 26 inch tires are NARROWER than my sister 700cc tires. That is NOT the Norm, most 26 inch tires, today, tend to start at 1 1/2 inches (about 37mm) and goes up to 2 1/2 inches (about 62mm). While 700cc Tires go from 17mm (3/4 of an inch) to 35mm (1 1/2 inches). Please note all sizes are approximates given the that tires expand, contract and even wear down.

While there is an overlap the General rule still remains the same, the 26 inch is wider than most 700cc tires.

How wide a tire can you put on your bike? The answer is as wide as the difference between the stays of the bike. My Cannondale can take tires as wide as 1.9 inch (through I am presently using 1.5 inch tires). My Phat City bike can take 2.25 inch wide tires. Most hybrids can only take tires less than 35mm (i.e. less than 1.5 inches).

Which is better? For off-road use the 26 inch do to its generally wider tires. For pavement, the 700cc for its larger size and thus better efficiency.

Last Comment on Tires, watch the tires on rims on most bicycles. While the higher end bikes tend to have tires that fit the rims, many do not. The reason for this is narrower rims are cheaper than wider rims, but people want wide tire bikes. Thus in many bikes you will see wide tires on very narrow rims (This seems NOT to be a problem with 700cc tires do to the fact 700cc tires tend to be narrow compared to 26 inch tires). For example my Bike Trailer came with 1.9 inch tires on very narrow rims (I would blame the manufacturer but I ordered the Rim and tire combination before I knew any better). I ended up replacing them with 1 inch tires for the rims were so narrow the proper size tires were only 1 inch wide tires.

Here is Sheldon Brown's Article on tire sizes, but please note while he mentions other sizes than 26 inch and 700cc, the bikes you will be looking at will tend to have one of these two sizes:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/26/index.html
1/2 way through the article you will see a Chart on what tires fit what rims. I have seen this chart violated on a regular basis, try NOT to do so.

More from Sheldon Brown on Wheels sizing:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

Now, I know you are female and I want to make one comment on 700cc and 26 inch bicycles. Most women are smaller than most men, if you are small even for a women you may have a problem finding a bike that fits you. In such a case you may want to look at the 26 inch bikes do to the fact the 26 inch bike is marginally smaller than the 700cc bikes. If you do so have the bike dealer switch out the old knobby wider mountain bike tires for a narrower slick (If you plan to ride only on pavement or on a bike trail). I mention this for I have a couple of sisters who ended up on 26 inch bikes NOT because they wanted a 26 inch bike, but the 26 inch was just that much a better fit than the 700cc hybrids. If you are to small for a 26 inch bike (if you are you are VERY small even for a woman) there are some 24 inch bikes in the market place (and some women specific bikes like the Terry).

For more on the Terry see:
http://www.terrybicycles.com/

Terry makes women bicycles, these are design for WOMEN not men's bikes in pink or with a down draft tube so your dress does not flip up while you mount your bike.
Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
Az_lefty Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue May-23-06 02:48 PM
Response to Original message
6. I've been riding quite a bit lately, 51 yr/old...
I have a road bike I bought a few years ago. Made by univega and has the 700cc tires and 18 speeds. Three sprockets on the front (small one for climbing hills) and 6 speed rear. Works great on the roads, mostly flat but some hills to climb getting to work. I paid around $285 for this and the same type of models today fall into the same range. You might want to consider one of these or a hybrid like the other posts are referring to.
Good luck and stay safe!
Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
Obamanaut Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue May-23-06 08:10 PM
Response to Original message
7. I ride a recumbent nearly every morning, and have lost 30 lbs
through increased exercise and slight reduction in caloric intake since March 1st.

I got this recumbent late last year http://www.easyracers.com/ez_1_sc.htm and a short time later got this trike (the same basic design as my two wheeler, but with 3 wheels) http://www.easyracers.com/ez_3.htm for Ms usnret88. As it turned out, she does not like to ride, so I have the seat adjusted on both of them to fit me, and ride them alternately. These are generally considered to be entry level bikes, at the lower end of the price range. THe total cost for the two combined was about $1500, with the trike being the more costly of the two. They suit me fine. I’m not going to race or tour, just ride locally. I also have traditional upright bikes, but the recumbent is much easier on my shoulders, wrists, and arms.

Both bikes have baskets on the back, and I use them for errands. We live about 6 miles from the nearest store, and because our county does not have home trash pick-up, I use the bikes to carry our trash to one of the collection areas 3 times weekly.
Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
Kolesar Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed May-24-06 09:04 AM
Response to Reply #7
8. Their folding-recumbent is really an innovative design
The rear wheel swings under the bike and forward. Typical folding bikes have a vertical axis of rotation. http://www.easyracers.com/fold_rush.htm
Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
bikebloke Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed May-24-06 03:25 PM
Response to Original message
9. Chiming in.
My old strategy was to buy a medium range bike, then upgrade parts as they wore out. That way, if you lose interest along the way, you won't be out of a lot of money. Though if you have a lot of hills, a triple crank can ease the climbs. Mountain bikes with tractor tires can be slow, if you're doing mostly road riding. Try a road or hybrid.

I never did lose interest and use my horse as my car, year around. Eventually, after riding so much it's more practical for me to spend more money on better parts. In the long run, it's cheaper. I ride a touring bike, which is sturdy for carrying loads - groceries etc.
Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
Kolesar Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed May-24-06 08:30 PM
Response to Reply #9
10. The "Tour de Frame"?
That's deep. Really deep.
Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
bperci108 Donating Member (969 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sun Jun-25-06 04:57 PM
Response to Original message
11. As the planets come into alignment....
How weird. :hi:

I'm doing exactly the same thing as you Adder. I haven't been on one since the late 80's.

I'm going down to the local bike shop tomorrow morning to get measured and order a Trek SU100.

You can bet I'm installing a nice gel-padded, Old Fat Guy tractor seat to protect the 40-something kiester, too. :rofl:


Hope I haven't forgot how to ride one....you know the old saying and all. ;)
Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
hippiechick Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Aug-04-06 12:57 PM
Response to Original message
12. Me too, Me too !!
Edited on Fri Aug-04-06 12:58 PM by hippiechick
Ok, I have to admit that I tried to learn to ride a 2 wheeler last summer and the results were NOT pretty. Not sure why but I just can't find balance. Kept tipping over - to the left ;)- anyway, with gas prices sneaking up again I went to a bike shop at lunch and tested out a recumbent. I live a block off a paved trail and could easily make the 4 mile ride to work each day with little to no impact on my schedule.



I like, I like !! :)

Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
bperci108 Donating Member (969 posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sun Aug-06-06 10:44 AM
Response to Reply #12
13. That EZ-3 trike is neat....
...I think there is an underseat steering option for it, too.

What kind of trail do you live near, hippychick?

Is it a converted railbed or a specially-built bike/pedestrian trail?
Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
hippiechick Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sun Aug-06-06 12:32 PM
Response to Reply #13
14. It's an old railway ...
http://www.indianatrails.org/Monon_Indy.htm

I usually walk HippieDog Hank and Ray LaBeagle 3-4 miles/day along various points of the trail ... I'm extremely fortunate to live so close to it - there are alot of 'off trail' footpaths and wooded areas along streams/ponds that make it seem like I don't live in a city of 1,000,000+ when I need some quiet time.

I looked at the 'hands down' steering version - the lowness to the ground made me a little nervous, despite the bike guy's assurances. Also, I do have to consider the price difference ...


:hi:
Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
Fovea Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Aug-23-06 10:05 AM
Response to Reply #14
15. Having ridden
USS (under seat steering) and OSS (over seat steering) bents, both have strong points, but I think USS is not as good on trails that are not paved with blacktop/concrete as OSS. I say that, and my ass says that.


I started with a tadpole trike after the stroke because my balance sucked. After a year on it, I found I could ride my partner's two wheel LWB bent. I haven't looked back my balance stays improved as long as I keep riding regularly.
Printer Friendly | Permalink | Reply | Top
 
DU AdBot (1000+ posts) Click to send private message to this author Click to view 
this author's profile Click to add 
this author to your buddy list Click to add 
this author to your Ignore list Sat May 04th 2024, 05:14 PM
Response to Original message
Advertisements [?]
 Top

Home » Discuss » DU Groups » Recreation & Sports » Bicycling Group Donate to DU

Powered by DCForum+ Version 1.1 Copyright 1997-2002 DCScripts.com
Software has been extensively modified by the DU administrators


Important Notices: By participating on this discussion board, visitors agree to abide by the rules outlined on our Rules page. Messages posted on the Democratic Underground Discussion Forums are the opinions of the individuals who post them, and do not necessarily represent the opinions of Democratic Underground, LLC.

Home  |  Discussion Forums  |  Journals |  Store  |  Donate

About DU  |  Contact Us  |  Privacy Policy

Got a message for Democratic Underground? Click here to send us a message.

© 2001 - 2011 Democratic Underground, LLC