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Even though it's only July, my thoughts are on this winter

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Home » Discuss » DU Groups » Environment & Energy » Frugal and Energy Efficient Living Group Donate to DU
 
lizziegrace Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Mon Jul-20-09 11:40 AM
Original message
Even though it's only July, my thoughts are on this winter
I live in a two story antebellum home built in 1846. Exterior walls are 3 layers thick brick. Interior walls are brick covered with plaster. The basement has low ceilings and is typically damp and cool. (Average temperature around 55-60) All floors are hardwood (most original) and the heating source is oil. The furnace is relatively new and should be as efficient as an oil furnace can be. The house has two original fireplaces but they are not usable. This is a rental and I have no idea what condition the chimneys are in.

I've wrapped the hot water tank in insulation and will seal cracks around the windows (all have storms) and replace weather stripping. Rooms will be closed off.

Any other suggestions for getting through the winter in this grand old lady??

Here's a photo:

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Digit Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jul-21-09 12:53 AM
Response to Original message
1. Damn Lizzie
What a fine old house you have there. Sometimes the utility companies can tell you what the utilities ran, but you really should know how many occupants there were to really do the math.

Sine it is a rental, you don't have to worry (as much) about what the utilities are since the tenants are responsible. With my rentals, I have it equal to what I would tolerate and leave it at that. Most landlords don't even do half of what you have done.

You have been a landlord before I hope. The oil tank WILL be an issue as to how much you have in it when tenants come in as well as when they vacate.

With a house this old, I am sure the insulation in the attic is not up to snuff unless you beefed it up. That would be major.

I don't know how the rental market is in your area but in my area it is abysmal.

Good luck and happy landlording!
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lizziegrace Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jul-21-09 09:02 AM
Response to Reply #1
2. Sorry!
I don't always write very clearly. I'm the tenant. :-)

I was able to rent this beautiful old house because the economy is bad and the landlord owned a 5000sf McMansion and couldn't sell it to move here. So I'm basically a caretaker since I know the purchase price and what I'm paying in rent can't possibly cover his mortgage.
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Digit Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jul-21-09 10:50 PM
Response to Reply #2
7. Your home is gorgeous!
How wonderful to be getting such a great deal, too!

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REACTIVATED IN CT Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jul-21-09 12:46 PM
Response to Original message
3. Utilize passive solar
Edited on Tue Jul-21-09 12:50 PM by REACTIVATED IN CT
IOW - Let the sunshine in during the day . I block the sun with blinds and dark curtains in the summer and let it in during the winter with opened blinds with just a decorative valance.

It sounds a lot like my house - built about the same time and in the same way.
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lizziegrace Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jul-21-09 01:55 PM
Response to Reply #3
4. I did that when I moved in in March
I didn't have money for heating oil and used the sun and a couple sealed radiator-style heaters to survive until it warmed up. I'm lucky the front faces the south and the west is shaded with very large trees in the summer. I've run the AC one week this summer and that's when I had company for my daughter's college graduation.

Don't you love these old houses?? I never want to leave this place.
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REACTIVATED IN CT Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jul-21-09 08:21 PM
Response to Reply #4
5. I do love them.
I was lucky enough to get some info on who built my house from the Historical Society. It was fun doing more research on them and creating a family tree.

Its been unseasonably cool here and I haven't even put the AC units in the windows. The ceiling fans keep in comfortable enough - so far
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likesmountains 52 Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Jul-21-09 09:13 PM
Response to Original message
6. I live in an older house too. For the unused rooms I close the heat ducts and block the area under...
the doors with rolled up towels so the cold air stays in the unused room. Use space heaters to heat only the space you're actually using. These two things have saved me a fair amount of $$ in the winter. Beautiful home, good luck!
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Sanity Claws Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sun Jul-26-09 07:23 AM
Response to Original message
8. Sealing the windows
Edited on Sun Jul-26-09 07:24 AM by Sanity Claws
You have probably done this already but sealing the windows with plastic will help keep the cold out.
It might be cost effective for you to lay some insulation in the attic. Have you checked out the attic yet?

Also, congratulations on finding such a nice place to live. I lost track what was going on with you and wanted to wish you all the best.
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Warpy Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Sun Jul-26-09 10:21 AM
Response to Original message
9. Find out what's cheaper, oil or electricity
If it's electricity, consider using econoheaters. You can then just heat the rooms you'll be using when you're using them, heat maintained in spaces with water like kitchens and bathrooms.

Consider adding foam insulation to water pipes, too, if you're going to be keeping the basement colder. The foam is pre formed and all you need to do is cut it to length and snap it on.

We really are getting to the point that central heat is a luxury few of us can afford. My own house uses a combination of wheezing 60 year old gas floor furnace, wood stove, and econoheaters. I've also been known to say to hell with it and wrap up in an electric blanket when I'm sitting at the puter.
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happyslug Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Tue Aug-11-09 12:14 PM
Response to Original message
10. Seal off the old fireplaces
A lot of hot air goes through a fireplace, the chimney just draws it up and out. Now that is what the chimney is SUPPOSE to do so it is NOT a design fault, but block off the FRONT of the fireplace to prevent the air from escaping. I would be careful and NOT block the chimney itself, you do not know what is being drawn through that chimney (i.e. the furnace and/or hot water tank) thus the chimney needs to be kept clean, but use plastic to block off the front of the fireplace so as little heat as possible escapes through the fireplace.

Side note: You do NOT report having any small children, be careful with plastic and small children. Plastic is designed to prevent air from flowing and that is good in a fireplace, but bad for a child's nose and mouth. Just a word of warning to be careful with the use of plastic at any height small children can get at it.

Last comment: You have an actual brick FRAMED house!!! Very rare, most built before 1850s when what we call nails become common (nails existed since ancient time, but rarely used in housing till the 1850 when iron production really took off in the US, prior to that most housing was tongue and grove, much more expensive to make and when nails became common around 1850 rapidly fell out of favor). The main competitor to Brick frame homes and tongue and grove home were log homes, which only needed a minimum of nails to stay in place (And most log homes did not even need any nails). With the introduction of cheap nails into the marketplace all three types of homes rapidly fell out of favor, replaced by today's wood framed homes, which can be faced with wood, brick, stone or any other facing material. Yes, brick homes today do NOT rely on bricks for support of the home, support is provided by pine lumber even in brick homes today. Prior to the 1850s Brick frame homes were common, and stayed common for another 30-40 years but slowly replaced completely by Wood Frame Housing by the 1890s (When the American Four Square became the the most common house design, a domination that only ended with WWII and the decision to eliminate Poaches AND have a Garage for the Car).

In the Hill District of Pittsburgh you still see a lot of Brick frame homes, occasionally one is torn down just for the bricks (and ever so often without knowledge of the owner, which is one way to increase your profit margin). Brick frame buildings take a beating and last forever. Near my old office they tore one down about 10 years ago (and this was a FACTORY Building, a HUGE BUILDING for its time period, late 1800s). They took tractor trailer loads of bricks out of that site. The County wanted it as a parking lot, and paid for tearing the building down (it has NOT been used in something like 40-50 years) by selling the bricks (Showing you how much brick is used in such constriction).

Now Brick is NOT a good insulator, but if it has Plaster on the inside of the wall, the Plaster and the wood frame used to hold up the plaster will provide plenty of insulation. Now if you owned the house I would install some 2 inch solid insulation over the old plaster for additional insulation, but you do NOT own it and I doubt you will get a return on such an investment over the time you rent the house.

Thus the only place you can attack the cold is insulation in the roof (Which can be relatively cheap and easy to lay down fiberglass, through installing the fiberglass probably will NOT pay for itself this winter) and sealing the windows and putting plastic on the inside so that plastic act like an insulated unit (This will pay for itself this winter thus I strongly recommend it). Those are very cheap and cost effective (Through my warning about plastic still applies, through I grew up in a house with bad windows and remember my mother putting up the plastic every winter so the concern as to plastic is more a warning then anything else).

Now the basement being "Cold and Damp" is the result of two things, first what is you average yearly temperature? Generally the Temperature of the Ground is the same as the Average Yearly temperature, in Pittsburgh that is 58 degree, I live in the Mountains in Johnstown Pa and it is 54 degree. Unless you install a heater that will be the temperature in the basement all year round. Thus it should be around 58 degree (you are in central Ohio about the same temperature as Pittsburgh).

Now the "Dampness" is another question. The area my be seeping water through the walls into the basement but if that is true you will NOT see any increase in water after any rainstorms. If the dampness increase after any rainstorms, then the water is getting into the brick and seeping into the basement through the bricks NOT the stone foundation. That is NOT serious as to the building itself but can be stopped by having someone "reface" the bricks i.e. fill in the area between the bricks with new mortar so that water flow down the front of the bricks NOT inside the brick frame. Now this is more of a problem with brick faced homes then Brick framed homes but may be the cause of the Dampness. The problem is the solution is, like replacing the windows, of a long term nature i.e. a lot of money this year with a return over the next 20-40 years. Thus NOT worth it to you to do, but something the landlord should look into.
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lizziegrace Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Wed Aug-12-09 10:30 AM
Response to Reply #10
11. Thank you so much for the information
The basement has 4 rooms. 1 has a gravel floor and the others are covered with pavers. The dehumidifier runs year round since I'm allergic to everything except maple trees and feathers. Mold and mildew are almost deadly for me.

The fireplace in the kitchen appeared to be sealed, but I looked closer and the cover has small holes in it. I'll back it with something. The living room fireplace is open and I've already been working on something decorative to seal the opening completely.

All interior walls are covered in plaster. All the doors and windows have storms. Weatherstripping around a couple doors has deteriorated and will be replaced this fall.

It's an amazing original old house. No painted trim and the renovations to the kitchen were done with taste.

:)

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old mark Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Thu Sep-10-09 07:47 AM
Response to Original message
12. Predictions state that heating oil will be around $2.65/gallon this winter, while
natural gas will be cheapest in decades.
You might consider several small space heaters for the big ol' place.
We had a 19th century farm house for a few years and it was very drafty - check carefully and seal or block as necessary, even beneath the doors using those throw-downs. I know you sealed the windows, but you will be amazed how wind gets in and heat escapes.

We had this house during a great blizzard back in the '90's - we had nearly 6 feet of snow, were completely isolated from the main road for 10 days. (We are in SE Pennsylvania.)
We got our oil delivery just as the snow was starting to fall.
Our place had an old coal furnace converted to oil, and was terribly wasteful - I'm interested to see how your place will be with a modern furnace.

FWIW, our "new" house is an end of row over 80 years old with a gas furnace. We just added a wood pellet stove last fall, and used the gas for maybe 2 days all winter.

It's easier to do this stuff when you own the house.
Good luck - maybe we will all have a moderate winter this year.....

mark
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lizziegrace Donating Member (1000+ posts) Send PM | Profile | Ignore Fri Sep-25-09 03:11 PM
Response to Reply #12
13. I bought 175 gallons last week
$2.29/gallon. I've got two radiator-style heaters I use in bedrooms, along with heated mattress pads. (The cats love having a full-size bed heating pads ;-))

The landlord and I are going to caulk all the storms and at least 1/2 the windows in all rooms (each has at least 4 windows) will be completely covered for the season with my version of these window quilts:



He's also going to replace the weather stripping on the five exterior doors on the first floor (yes, five doors!) The whole house has storms, but still...
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