World-record surfer a prisoner of his talent
In December of 1969, a man named Greg Noll rode the biggest wave ever surfed. It happened in Hawaii, at a place called Makaha, and there was no doubt about the magnitude of his achievement; it surpassed all that had come before.
Most stunning of all was Noll's reaction. He was a legend in the sport, a larger-than-life character who had ridden giant waves for years, and he suddenly retired at the age of 31. That was his swan song. For those devoted to the sport and its lifelong benefits, it was difficult to fathom how Noll could simply walk away.
Shawn Dollar understands what Noll was facing.
Dollar, a 32-year-old regular at the famed Mavericks break near Half Moon Bay, is among the most accomplished athletes in Northern California. He has set two world records in the biggest-wave category. He lives comfortably in Santa Cruz with his wife and 2 1/2-year-old son, and is held in awe by young surfers who could only dream of cascading down a 60-foot wall of water.
And he has become, in essence, a prisoner of his talent
http://www.sfgate.com/sports/article/World-record-surfer-a-prisoner-of-his-talent-5024902.php
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