Everything from a wide angle shot like the one I linked to in the last post to a moon shot is possible with that.
A lot of low light photography is in the post processing, getting the picture is often less than half the work, I find my night shots usually turn out better if I over expose to make them look brighter than they do to the eyes and then turn down the brightness with curves in Photoshop or GIMP or whatever.
There will be a long exposure noise compensation setting in your camera in some menu, for night photography (except for the moon which is more like shooting in daylight) you'll definitely want that turned on. The camera then takes two shots, one with the shutter open and the second with it closed, it then subtracts the closed shot from the open shutter one to help reduce the noise in the image, it only actually saves the first shot after the second one is subtracted.
Bags of dried beans or rice from the supermarket make good supports for your camera while shooting at night, three or four of them can be arranged to hold your camera steady while the shutter is open for longer than usual because the light level is low.
Learning to shoot in manual mode is a good thing for night photography too, often the metering won't work accurately in really dark circumstances and the autofocus doesn't work that well or even at all either. All my lenses are manual everything except for the standard kit lens and I find it makes me pay more attention to the artistic qualities of what I'm doing rather than just clicking away.
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