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betsuni

(25,456 posts)
Tue Apr 11, 2017, 09:14 AM Apr 2017

Writing about food: Michael Ruhlman, "The Soul of a Chef"

"One of the things you learn in culinary school ... is that everything ... gets a sauce. ... And to be so antisauce generally, as Michael Symon seemed to be, was foolhardy. ... Willfully, defiantly, hopefully, and skeptically I ordered the chicken, the roasted, sauceless chicken. ... First, the potatoes. Courtney roasted them early in the day and cooled them. When the chicken was ordered, Chatty fired it, plopping the boned half chicken onto the grates of the broiler ... then reheated those precooked potatoes with some red onion and arugula in a saute pan into which he poured a little cream, some salt and pepper. The liquid helped reheat the potatoes evenly and added some moisture and the fat that made potatoes good to eat. When the chicken was done ... he poured the potatoes into the center of a hot plate and placed the chicken atop the pile, gave the plate an artful squirt of balsamic squeeze bottle, and off it went.

"By the time it reached me, the diner, the chicken has rested ... the juices redistributing themselves in the chicken; but it was also losing juices, and when you cut into it, plenty of juice ran out. The bird was stuffed with chanterelle, shiitake, and chicken-in-the-woods mushrooms, which are loaded with juice, and as they rested, they dumped their liquid. The chicken and mushroom juices fell over the potatoes, which were generously coated with seasoned cream. The falling juices and cream were then offset by the acid sweetness of the balsamic reduction. And there it was, a dish that sauced itself -- with all the familiar components of a classical sauce ... . Not only was this ingenious, but it was light ... and practical. From a service standpoint, it reduced for the cook the number of steps needed to finish the plate. You're in the weeds, got a million orders called, potatoes, chicken, vinegar, boom out the door. No dipping a ladle or spoon into sauce and pouring. This was not insignificant, and Symon strove for this kind of efficiency. 'If I can't finish it in two pans, I won't do it,' he told me about his rule for all dishes ... . ... The business of cooking was a craft -- you worked with tools and materials -- and he was mechanically versatile."

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Writing about food: Michael Ruhlman, "The Soul of a Chef" (Original Post) betsuni Apr 2017 OP
'And there it was, a dish that sauced itself!' elleng Apr 2017 #1
Great, thanks. Just ordered for little more than shipping. Hortensis Apr 2017 #2
I found the first section of the book a little boring. betsuni Apr 2017 #3
I've only read a couple inside-the-kitchen books Hortensis Apr 2017 #4

Hortensis

(58,785 posts)
2. Great, thanks. Just ordered for little more than shipping.
Tue Apr 11, 2017, 08:05 PM
Apr 2017

Far less professional, but in the same direction, I love the runoff juices of tomatoes, cucumbers, and others that have been delicately tossed with salt and salad herbs and spices. Most recipes eliminate them as a first step, but I could drink the product by the gallon. If that doesn't suit, pour a bit off and toss the rest with a little oil to help it "dress" a bit better.

betsuni

(25,456 posts)
3. I found the first section of the book a little boring.
Tue Apr 11, 2017, 10:54 PM
Apr 2017

That's about a master chef exam, classical cooking like terrines and galantines and the like. The rest about the restaurants Lola and The French Laundry, good. Some recipes included. There's one from Lola for deep-fried squid that's been marinated in ginger ale that I want to try. I don't know how those restaurant people can work so hard and for so long, it's incredible to me.

Hortensis

(58,785 posts)
4. I've only read a couple inside-the-kitchen books
Wed Apr 12, 2017, 04:30 AM
Apr 2017

so far, but they were both very enjoyable looks into really different worlds.

Back in California if I were in the area alone I'd have lunch at Musso and Franks -- at the counter facing the cooks' counter. I don't know how narrow the work aisle is, but it's far short of what home kitchen designers typically imagine is necessary. Perhaps only 30+ inches. Didn't matter. Watching the pair of older short-order cooks maneuver around each other with incredible competence was like watching a ballet, a very fast and energetic one, but smoooth. Fun!

That recipe sounds intriguing. Nice to hear there are a few.

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