A review--https://www.kirkusreviews.com/book-reviews/michael-w-twitty/the-cooking-gene/
THE COOKING GENE
A JOURNEY THROUGH AFRICAN-AMERICAN CULINARY HISTORY IN THE OLD SOUTH
BY MICHAEL W. TWITTY
RELEASE DATE: AUG. 1, 2017
snip--"Food historian Twitty, creator of the Afroculinaria blog, serves up a splendid hearth-based history, at once personal and universal, of the African-American experience."
snip--" Twitty also traces his own family history, beyond the eight or so generations that carry documents, to places all over the world: a white ancestor here, an Indonesian by way of Madagascar forebear there, Native Americans and West Africans and Anglos meeting in bloodstreams and at table. On all these matters, the author writes with elegant urgency, moving swiftly from topic to topic: on one page, he may write of the tobacco economy of the Confederacy, on another of the ways in which the food of the Chesapeake grew legs as the culture of the Upper South was forced to branch out beyond the Appalachians and Mississippi into new territories, such that turkey with oyster dressing on a Maryland plantation became turkey with freshwater clam and mussel sauce on a slaveholding Missouri farmstead. Drawing on a wealth of documentary digging, personal interviews, and plenty of time in the kitchen, Twitty ably joins past and present, puzzling out culinary mysteries along the waye.g., chickens got served to preachers because chickens had always flounced in the hands of African priests, and nobody remembered why.
a bit more at source