the score is excellent. Plus, there are many bits of fun, quotable, entertaining dialogue (much of it from and between Ali and Auda). But I think the two aspects I like the most are the evolution of Ali: as he goes from a confident leader, to hero-worshiper, to disillusioned comrade, to childlike student, to political aspirant, and then sees it crash down again in Damascus. And the cynicism of it all, with Allenby, Dryden, and Faisal manipulating in the background, eventually shuffling Lawrence off stage. It's a mythic film, but it really questions the construction of myth and heroes, particularly through the character of Bentley.
It's also an epic film, but the characters really drive it. And it always strikes me that the characters who know who and what they are, and are satisfied with that or just don't care (Allenby, Auda, Brighton, Dryden) are generally happy. But those who dream (Lawrence, Ali) get hosed.
Also, of course, camels are just very very cool... 
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