What's for Dinner? ~ Wednesday May 23rd

[yellerpup]

18. Chicken Betty's Fried Chicken

I pulled this out of my archived journal for you. I originally wrote this recipe out for hippywife but I've been using it since the early 1980s, when it was published in the NYT Sunday Magazine. I DO brine, and this chicken is always fantastic.

Chicken Betty insisted on using cast iron skillets and you will need two, one a very deep 10" skillet with 5" sides and a lid, and the other is a 10" skillet with 3" sides. My lid fits both skillets perfectly perfectly. Chicken Betty was the eldest of 11 children, had been frying chicken from the time she was a little girl and was a somewhat temperamental cook. Local restaurants around Kansas City hired her when they had the chance, although I seem to recall that she would get in a tizzy over one thing or another and indulge in a little drama and walk out taking both her clientele and her skillets. She likes her fryers about 3-1/2 lbs. so they have some meat on their bones. She washes the pieces in cold water, pats them dry, then lets them air dry long enough to shake the refrigerator chill off. Salt and pepper both sides of chicken and roll them in seasoned flour. She likes salt, pepper, and a little paprika mixed in with about 4-5 C. of flour in a big bowl, and wisks all together with a fork. Divide the seasoned flour and make an assembly line with the flour on both sides and a bath of eggs beaten with milk and salt (and a drop of liquid pepper--I use sriracha) in the middle. Chicken Betty said to "tump" the chicken into the flour mixture one piece at a time, vigorously thumping the flour into each piece. Next step, dredge the floured chicken piece in the egg mixture and let the excess drip off before rolling it into the second flour mixture and again "tumping" the flour on so that it will stick. By the time you get all the pieces dredged, dipped and floured, the deep skillet should be about half full with the oil/lard just under the smoking point (about 375) and ready to fry. She insists on using lard for frying and disapproves of oil, she did say something about Crisco, I think, but times have changed. I got into the habit of making lard when I got into making tortillas, so I use some homemade lard to flavor the main frying medium (canola, usually) when I make fried chicken. Chicken Betty says it's important to let the chicken have room to float a little in the first cooking, then you transfer the pieces (when they turn golden) into the shallow skillet with the lid on tightly until the chicken begins to splutter, then you turn down the fire and set the lid ajar. Don't get into a hurry during this phase. You will be turning the chicken in the short pan several times and will take 15-20 minutes for the crust to become deep brown and very crisp. Keep the batches warm in the oven while you fry.

I have taken liberties with Chicken Betty's recipe in all ways over the years except for using cast iron. I have brined, not brined it, added several combinations of dried herbs and spices, and it has all been good. The success of her recipe is in the method, and the key to her method is cast iron.